Date
1 - 14 of 14
Norcold 3150 & 12 volt
|
Our Norcold 3150 is not working on 12V with engine running. Propane and 120v work fine. The display shows a wrench with a 6 (see photo). Is there a fuse somewhere or something else I should look for?
Steve 2017 J |
|
|
|
David Dunlap
Steve there is a wealth of information on repairing this in the history of this group. The error messages don’t seem at all helpful in figuring out the problem. We have a 2015 View J, and the 12v operation while driving has never worked since we bought it 6 years ago used from Camping World. Our mechanic said it needed a new board which would run us $500 or so and he didn’t think it was worth fixing. We have put 55K miles of travel in and it has remained unfixed and we go down the road with the refer running off the propane, possibly not legal here in California. One of the repairs involved a new part and some soldering work and if I can find that helpful email I will send it to you. Seemed to me that in my case the fix would be probably more fraught than the problem with the potential pf rendering the refer kaput.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Dave Dunlap 2015 View J
|
|
|
|
crozas8454@...
Ours has not worked on either propane or 12v
it broke down after the second year of ownership and it’s not worth it the expense to fix CRozas 2015 View J |
|
|
|
Wilson Jumper
You need to be sure the boost solenoid has not failed.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
With engine running you should see voltage on chassis and coach at 14.2 on the one place . They should be the same. Wilson 2013 View V , NC On Mar 12, 2023, at 11:53 AM, ArtistsView <sjbendy@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Our first two VNs had the three way fridge. Never paid attention to if the 12v was even working. The lpg sips fuel, so that’s what we used when not plugged in to shore.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Dave Beadles :-) On Mar 12, 2023, at 9:53 AM, ArtistsView <sjbendy@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
FWIW, just checked on-line version of the manual, the wrench-6 just indicates that "the refrigerator does not work on 12V", so as noted earlier, not really a helpful code. Count me as another who actually tried to have our mobile tech work on this (he even replaced a board), but we find it's 12V operation while travelling unreliable (at best), so we just don't bother w/that mode and instead manually select LP unless we're plugged in.
-- Jeff S, '17 Winnebago View/J, Gainesville FL |
|
|
|
RV Traveler
Been following the forum traffic and thought add my experience here! IMO sounds like circuit board fuse problem other earlier forum member also talked about in other postings
I have a Norcold N3150 refrigerator that had a similar repeat problem where it did not switch over to work on 12V DC when the Motorhome engine was running. Refrigerator did work on Gas and Electric.
Problem first appeared just outside of warranty period by 6 weeks. Norcold would not step up and cover under warranty which was a big disappointment.
Local RV Service Center replaced the complete Power Control Board (#690863 / 691449), for which I paid significantly for part and labor including troubleshooting. (At that time had the local Service Center give me the problem board and noticed some slight discoloration on the board bottom side conformal coating around the D+/ ENG RUN, LC 12 VDC, and LC GND board notations. Other than that put complete board assembly in my shop drawer as is.)
Some two years later same 12 VDC Refrigerator problem occurred again with the two year old replacement. In looking closely at the Wiring Diagram and Pictorial found in the Norcold Installation and Owner's Manual that came with my Reyo from Winnebago noticed there are some on-board fuses. Removed board "PCM 1342006010690390 Rev. 04" from the power board housing assembly and on closer inspection of both the original and replacement boards found the 20 A fuse to be discolored and open! (The power board housing assembly is in a plastic box just above the gas valve on my refrigerator set-up.)
Found this fix on the web in one of the motorhome forums (which I do not recall) where you essentially bypass a poorly designed circuit and bring the fuse and 12V input line outside the printed circuit board. See “ https://www.arprv.com/n3104-n3150-no-12-volt-heater.php “ for all the details. You also increase the fuze from 20A to 30A.
Did this fix on both of my boards some three years ago and (knock-on-wood … ha ha funny) have not had any problems. Do carry the second board with me as a spare just in case. It was a real easy fix once knew what the problem was. I choose the male-spade connector approach.
2015 Reyo 25P (Navion cousin)
2018 Ford Focus Toad
Northern Vermont |
|
|
|
Jimbo 2016 VG Victor,NY
Steve,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Very very common. There is a fuse on the board found on outside lower fridge vent. Hard to get to, sometimes fruitful, sometimes not. Whole lot of info from “the dometic guys”. Don’t let them scare you from purchasing all their “stuff”. I looked for an aftermarket board and could not find one with a reasonable price. I called a local rv store and they ordered one directly from Dometic, and I think it was in the $225 range. My fridge is still far from perfect, as it takes a few days to get the proper temp right, acting like I put it in defrost mode. I just got a new thermistor (a cheap part) and will install it this Sunday before we take off on a week trip. The last thing to replace is a $400+ Board to replace the control panel on the door. Hope it doesn’t come to that! As an aside, have run it on propane while driving for four years now. It really takes a minuscule amt of propane. On Sunday, March 12, 2023, 9:53 AM, ArtistsView <sjbendy@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
ldfeat
Ours did that and I had changed the 20 Amp fuse located outs8de behind the fridge access/cooling panel, inside the black plastic electrical box. This is a common problem and I relocated the fuse outside the box because of chronic heat issues due to poor design IMO. No problems since. Larry 2014 Reyo P
|
|
|
|
Steve, As you can see from the threads, highly likely you have a blown 20 amp fuse. The frustrating part is I watch the DC element draw routinely up to between 25 and 29 amps on my victron indicator. So, increasing the fuse to 30amp will eliminate the problem or just carry extra 20 amp fuses.
As a note: the DC heating element does not get as hot as the AC heating element or the LP; therefore, the fridge will not get as cool on DC as it does on AC or LP. We run ours on the AC inverter. Earl ATL 2017 NJ |
|
|
|
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. If I can't get the 12v working I have no problem using propane while driving. I decided to take the black plastic cover off to see if the 20 amp fuse needed to be replaced, but being a total rookie on this could not see it! Here is a photo of the cover I took off. Is this the right cover, and if so where is the fuse!
Steve 2017 J  |
|
|
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 3/22/23 07:51, ArtistsView via groups.io wrote:
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. If I can't get the 12v working I have no problem using propane while driving. I decided to take the black plastic cover off to see if the 20 amp fuse needed to be replaced, but being a total rookie on this could not see it! Here is a photo of the cover I took off. Is this the right cover, and if so where is the fuse! |
|
|
|
Thanks Bob... excellent instructions at ARP, but too much for me. I'll just use propane!
Steve 2017 J |
|
|
|
ldfeat
I hope everyone is cognizant of the dangers of using propane to run your fridge while refueling. When using propane to cool the fridge, there is an open flame too close to the fuel pedestal pump (IMO) which could be emitting fuel fumes near the open-flame in your coach. Even if you use battery to cool the fridge, as soon as you turn off your motor, the fridge will automatically revert to propane. We always turn off the fridge before shutting down the engine before refueling, then turn it back on after restarting the engine. Beware... Larry 2014 Reyo P
|
|
|
